Spying on the South: An Odyssey Across the America Divide
By Tony Horwitz
Published 2019
Read Oct 2025
Tony Horwitz was a Pulitzer Prize winning journalist who said “I love the past and the present in equal parts. If I’m doing only history, I feel restless to get out on the road and explore the contemporary scene. And if I’m focusing only on the present day, I want to pause and duck into an archive and flesh out the history of what I’m seeing.” (1)
In this book, Tony Horwitz documents his travels along the path Fredrick Olmsted took in 1853-1854 while reporting for the brand-new publication, The New York Times. Horwitz purposefully travels via similar means where possible—a barge on the Ohio River, a steamboat on the Mississippi River, mules in Texas—and to visit the same towns and plantations that Olmsted visited where possible.
We learn about Fredrick Olmsted and why he was taking this journey. Olmsted, who had dallied in a variety of occupations without settling on any of them, wanted, in part, to see for himself what slavery was really about and to learn if it might be possible for the north and south to peacefully settle their differences by dealing with factual accounts. Simiarly Horwitz was interested in seeing the south firsthand in current times to better understand it.
Horwitz’s compares and contrasts what he sees on his trip with Olmsted’s which happened 160 years earlier. The trip along the Mississippi was especially interesting to this reader. The steamboat that took Horwitz south was a river cruise ship vs a working boat carrying Olmsted which was taking south product—both material and human. Horwitz’s steamboat cruise stopped at plantations that were fully working in Olmsted’s day and are now tourist stops that gave a glimpse of the history Olmsted saw.
Olmsted and Horwitz each spend quite a bit of time in Texas, which is pertinent since it is so large and, as Horwitz notes, quite diverse. His ability to speak about what he’s witnessing in the present and to also give pertinent historical information was quite engaging for this reader. His observations about the parallels between modern-day concerns about migration across the southern border of the US and the concerns Mexicans had when whites from the east began migrating into Texas are quite relevant and provide an interesting perspective of that part of Texas and on the current migrant situation.
Both men were quite adept at engaging with people they met during their travels. Olmsted’s previous foray into farming and working on a ship likely gave him conversation starters. Horwitz was willing to participate in local activities including mud-racing which surely enabled people to warm up to him. And he was good at having a beer or two to lubricate discussions. Olmsted’s views of the south evolved over the course of his travels and so did Horwitz’s — because of their close interactions with the people they met.
Horwitz’s journey occurred during the run-up to the 2016 election, a time when persistent differences between “red” and “blue” were beginning to form into major divisions. This interestingly parallels the time of Horwitz’s journey when the division between north and south regarding slavery policies were beginning to boil over. As we progress through a second Trump administration, it seems an especially interesting time to read this book and gain some understanding of the way people think in this part of the country now and 160 years ago. Is it different? Read the book to find out!
The last chapter gives a look at Olmsted’s life post this trip and helps us understand how he came into the profession for which most of us remember him—as a designer of many parks throughout the east. We learn he architected well beyond these parks as well.
This is a great book for discussion as demonstrated by this reader’s book discussion group recently. The discussion reinforced some things this reader learned while reading and introduced additional perspectives and learnings as well.
The photo is Olmsted in 1857